jebbewocky

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About jebbewocky

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  1. Unless you have some sort of lineage traceable hissers, or it is some other specific taxa, always assume that hissers means hybrids of G.portentosa. Those were widely hybridized in the past. Same with many Blaberus. I'm not throwing anyone under the bus here, just stating a reality of the hobby. I've kept G.portentosa in the past and likely will again.
  2. I was going to say similar. The spines on my Eublaberus distanti are pretty wicked--I only feed them to my biggest tarantulas and I would not offer them to any lizards smaller than a beardie or a bluey.
  3. I almost never handle my roachy charges. They don't like it, and because of the rashes and lung issues, neither do I. I still enjoy the hobby though.
  4. Same here. I actually get lung issues if I get exposed to the frass too much. Try keeping them moister, it keeps the allergens down and if you add microfauna that can help too.
  5. I'd freeze it in cubes, mixed with fruits and veggies, just like I do for my bluey. I only have one bluey so the cubes can get a bit old since he only eats one a week, and if I could feed some to my roaches then I'd be able to renew the stuff more often.
  6. I know dry dog food is pretty standard for roaches. Mine have never gone for it much. I buy wet dog food, specifically Merrick, for my blue tongue skink..and I tried it for my Eublaberus distanti and they seemed to love it. Does anyone know of any reason not to use this more often for my Eublaberus and Blaberus?
  7. Update: I added a good 3" or so of coco-coir and that like..chunky coconut husk and sprayed it down. The increase in humidity seems to have helped out with my death rate. No idea about the wings yet, but I am hopeful.
  8. I got a horned frog to keep my roach colonies manageable since my tarantulas don't need much. He is scared of them, so he gets mice.
  9. Why the white bread?
  10. To clarify: yes, they need a source of water. However, they do not need a dish of water. In fact, I would discourage using a dish as you'd end up with drowned nymphs. The best way to provide water IMO is either to spray the sides of the enclosure which allows them to drink from the sides, or (what I do) provide vegetables and fruits that have moisture. That's more than sufficient. I have used the water crystals, but stopped because they don't seem to like them much. The crystals are also plastic and I don't see any good coming of that.
  11. FWIW, I use this for crickets too.
  12. Another thing to watch out for is anaerobic build-up. I've run into that with my colony--I was overfeeding and offering food that was too moist I think.
  13. Interesting topic. I honestly wonder if some of the "taste" preferences may be an instance of unintended selective breeding, or perhaps differences in stock, as well as species? I'm honestly surprised broccoli doesn't go over well for you! My wife and I love broccoli, but I am extremely picky and only like the florets, so all of the stalk goes into the Eublaberus distanti bin and they reliably eat all of it except the peel within a day or so! They leave hollowed out bits that I fish out later. I find most winter squash goes over extremely well with both my E.distanti and my Blaberus boliviensis. Summer squashes are ignored.
  14. I just got some chickfeed and alfalfa pellets and am offering that in a 50/50 mix after hesring about it on the Chameleon breeder podcast. They seem to like it.
  15. Actually, Mazuri is a higher Ca gutload. I was using it to the exclusion of other powdered foods. That may well be the issue. I am currently keeping them without substrate, in an 18gallon rubbermaid bin with some 2" screened vent holes. I'm trying out a different diet for them. If that doesn't work I'll add substrate again.