pannaking22

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About pannaking22

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    Hissing Cockroach

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    Illinois, USA
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    Arachnids, insects, roaches of course!, entomology, rearing and breeding a variety of invertebrates, birding, macrophotography, basketball

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  1. Welcome to the forum! If you contact Kyle at Roach Crossing, I'm pretty sure he has some subspinipes or at least can point you in the right direction. Same with the flag tail, though that one doesn't seem to pop up as often.
  2. Good idea to use the marbles in the water dish instead of cotton balls. Makes clean up easier and you won't have to worry about potential bacteria/mold problems. As long as the reptile shops know they are hybrids and label them as such, I see no problem in dropping them off with them instead of freezing them.
  3. You could probably just throw in a couple large nymphs or adults in there and that should get the process rolling. From what I've seen, red heads are pretty mellow, so you shouldn't have to worry about them eating the assassins. What temp are you keeping your lobsters at? Anymore it seems like I can't give them enough food.
  4. An easy combo would probably be a small and large species. Maybe Paraplecta or the little penguins with peppered roaches, or something along that line. As long as temp and humidity requirements line up, you should be able to keep a couple species together as long as they fill their own ecological niches and won't compete too much. Something to keep in mind too is the reproductive potential of any given species. Some species have larger broods or reproduce more frequently, giving that species a potential edge in out-competing whichever other species are in the tank. In set-up 2, I would bet on the caffrorum eventually out-competing the rest because they have huge broods. If you're keeping it humid enough for the harlequins, it may slow down the caffrorum a bit since they prefer it a bit drier. In your wicked tank, the red heads will likely out-compete the rest after a point because they also have fairly large broods and give birth frequently. Periodic removal of some of the more dominant species should help keep everything in check though. If you want a predator that would do well with a variety of roaches and not get too stressed, I would try assassin bugs.
  5. What species of roaches are they? Some are more likely to eat each other if there's an issue (stress, not enough food/humidity/hiding places, vulnerability during molting, etc.), but it still ends up being fairly uncommon. Dead roaches tend to be fair game, but you should still be able to find legs or wings or something along that line.
  6. Welcome!
  7. Only way there'd be a neurotoxin issue is if the roach was eating neurotoxins first, and even then you'd probably have to eat a ton of them before dying. If it's that guy trying to get the ball python, he could have been allergic or he could have gotten one lodged in his throat and choked to death.
  8. A deep moist substrate is key for this species (air humidity is less important, I think). Nymphs strongly prefer a vertical surface for their final molt, otherwise they can have issues, which may or may not kill them. Besides those two potential issues, this is a very easy and rewarding species to keep. Neat to hear about all the interesting behaviors you guys are noticing too!
  9. They can prolong their gestation if they don't like conditions, so it's pretty easy for them to go months without giving birth and then suddenly pop when conditions are right. Sometimes you just get weird females too though and they take their sweet time doing it.
  10. It definitely was! Needless to say I was pretty unhappy with the whole ordeal. Hindsight is 20/20 though and I really wish I would have kept the larvae. They looked very Dipteran, so it likely wasn't a wasp parasitoid. I almost wondered if maybe they had been kept too wet before coming to me and got infected with something I didn't notice until they died. I had only had them for a couple weeks before that happened, so it was pretty sudden and they seemed very healthy leading up to that point.
  11. Soy protein should still be fine. They might appreciate the mix of proteins as well, though with them being corydiids they still probably won't eat much. I've kept mine at a higher overall humidity than I'd meant to and haven't had any issues. I don't know the exact %, but I can tell by substrate feel and smell, as odd as that sounds lol. At least no issues like last time I tried to keep this species and my two randomly started leaking pink fluid and burst with some sort of larvae. I strongly suspect that was due to the seller though and not something I was doing wrong. I believe I just got my first adult, so now it's the new waiting game of ooths and nymphs. So hopefully I'll have some little ones running around by the end of the year Darn corydiids lol
  12. I would throw in bits of romaine lettuce on rare occasions, but it was never very much and there were plenty of carrots fed to them in between. It only happened to one male as well, instead of all of them. Once my colony gets large enough I definitely want to start messing with diet. I might try it with subcincta as well, since all I have now are verrucosa. The protein has pretty much always been dry cat food and those pieces come in all sorts of colors, but I don't think that would do much.
  13. Agreed with high carotenoids, mine have had a heavy dose in carrots in their diet and most have matured with bright orange spots. I've still had a few oddities though (yellow spots, and one male with yellow/green spots), so I wonder if genetics still plays a part, or if those were just individuals that ate more protein than produce. There hasn't been much color change that I've seen if you vary the diet when they're adults, but I may just not change the diet for long enough.
  14. I have a good number in a shoe box now and they seem to be doing well. I toss in protein and produce once a week and it's appreciated. Fish flakes and apple seem to be the favorites, though everything disappears over time. They don't seem to eat the leaf litter as much as other roaches, but at the very least I think the nymphs appreciate all the extra hiding spots. I have a small piece of bark in there too that seems to be the popular spot because all the females and a good number of nymphs will hang out on it. Room temp should be fine, bump it up a little more and they'll really get going. I mist once a week as well, but with how I set up my shoe boxes they tend to hold humidity pretty well and I don't have worry about frequent mistings. Out of curiosity NeverLift (and anyone else with this species), do you have a major male/female skew in your colony? Mine is skewed ridiculously towards female (~1 male/35 females). I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that that isn't normal lol.
  15. It may not be whatever fungus grows in the kit, but there's I suppose there's a possibility that any glowing fungus has potential to get the spots to glow. I wonder if it's something they have to eat while growing up to collect enough of the bioluminescent compounds though?