ptanner

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Everything posted by ptanner

  1. Awesome! Mine was delivered last week and it is FANTASTIC!
  2. Nice setup. For safety purposes, I would not have electric equipment below tubs with water in them. In my opinion, that is an unnecessary risk. As for heat, how much does the room fluctuate? Do you want these colonies to breed a lot (like feeder Dubia colonies) or just live? If the room stays around 70 and rapid reproduction is not a necessity, I would not worry about heat. The turtle lamps will definitely give off some ambient heat. before putting in any roaches I would set up a digital thermometer that keeps track of the high and low temperatures so you can see how much it fluctuates without the turtle lights and plan accordingly. Those bins are also the largest ones available and can hold A LOT of roaches, so I would scale down to the smaller bins and save these for extremely large colonies or species that do not do well with crowding. All my colonies start in small bins and progress in size as the colony grows.
  3. Those tubs are the best! been using them for years and have never had any issue or an escapee. They are the only tubs I recommend because you do not need a barrier layer. With wire racks like that, enough space to slide each bin straight in and out of the rack should be enough space for ventilation. I prefer vents mounted on the lid versus the sides but that is just my personal preference. I think the main issue would be if you did not have a shelving unit and needed to stack the bins on one another, then front/side mounted vents would be the better of the two. Plus, lid-mounted vents will allow deeper substrate for some species.
  4. You could also put bungie cords across the front, back, and sides of shelves. That should keep any from sliding off.
  5. Yes, they are all dubia. #7-10 look to be juveniles, not adults.
  6. That is gorgeous!
  7. You can definitely use substrate, plants, and tank decor. I recommend coco coir for a substrate (I prefer Eco Earth bricks but others prefer more generic varieties). Of course this will also depend on if you want to breed them a lot or just keep them for display.
  8. Looks familiar lol. Definitely a more in-depth step-by-step guide than what I posted a few years ago.
  9. I realize this post is a month old, but I have been using the Zoo Med Reptitherm UTH 10-20 gallon and the 30-40 gallon on plastic totes for years and have not had any issues. I also hook them up to Lutron Credenza light dimmers to regulate power output.
  10. Send Zephyr a pm. He is the one that did the Blatticomposting project for the University of Michigan, Dearborn. He also runs www.roachcrossing.com
  11. Hey everyone, Just a few questions for those of you that have these two species. Which one has the least odor and how does each compare to other species that have an odor? Which one reproduces faster? I know E. distanti will eat their dead, but will B. craniifer do the same? Does one species handle crowding better than the other? Which of the two species do you prefer and why? I would get both species and most likely will in the future, but I only want to add one species to my collection at a time. Thanks ahead of time for any info you may have.
  12. Dead roaches are not necessarily a problem for my hissers. It is just the fact that all the really old ones are finally starting to die off. I check regularly and remove the dead. They are not in a display, just in a Sterilite-type enclosure. I am using them for a few projects, so there is no need for a display...yet. If I had a naturalistic display, then I would get cleaner crews and have an entire ecosystem. I have not had a problem with mites, maggots, or anything else of that nature, but I appreciate the info and will keep it in mind when I finally do make my display enclosures.
  13. Thank you both for your responses. I love the look of both species. The big things are smell, crowding, and eating their dead. Besides my G. portentosa, all my other species have eaten their dead, which is great for maintenance and cleanliness. I hate having to always remove the bodies of my old-age hissers. As for the crowding, I want to breed decent-sized colonies for both feeders and display. And, of course, I want as low an odor as possible for obvious reasons.
  14. Hey everyone, Just wanted to share how I set up my roach tubs. I set them all up the same way, have not had any problems, have never had to use a barrier, and the roaches have all been extremely prolific. My dubia population was exploding, so I gave the colony to a friend with a bearded dragon. I only have Lats right now but just set up a bin for some G. portentosa that I ordered. Lateralis bin on the right, G. portentosa bin on the left I used a Sterilite air tight bin for the hissers. Since it is air tight I do not have to worry about any escapees. I used a 2.5-inch hole saw for the ventilation holes and secured the screen with hot glue both inside the lid and outside. This is the inside of the hisser bin so far. Just have to put the food dish, water dish, and egg crate in. I used an extra-small ZooMed UTH on the back and a medium on the bottom. The heat pads are secured to the bin using foil tape meant for air ducts. I then taped foam board insulation to the bottom, sides, front, and back. This keeps the heat pad in contact with the bin and makes all the heat from the heat pads go into the enclosure. I used duct tape to secure the foam board to the bin. Another view of the inside of the bin. Showing both heat pads and thermometer probe. Each heat pad is attached to a Lutron Credenza plug-in lamp dimmer. This is available at Lowe's or Home Depot. These allow me to adjust the amount of heat given off by each heat pad and control the temperature inside the bin. There are two different kinds of the dimmers, normal and CFL. You want to use the NORMAL ones, NOT the CFL ones. I use a basic digital thermometer with probe to monitor the temperature in the bin. Many companies make these. This one just happens to be made by Zilla. This is the foil tape that I use to secure the heat pads to the bin. There are a few different varieties, but this one has worked the best for me. I have not had any issues with melting plastic or any other issues by setting up my bins this way. The temperatures remain steady and all my roaches have thrived in these conditions. I look forward to reading any comments and will answer any questions as best I can. I hope this helps some of you and gives others ideas for your own enclosures.
  15. Thank you very much. Since the egg crates are right over the heat mat, they trap the heat. Inside the egg crate is around 85-90 degrees, just to the side of them stays around 83 degrees, and the rest of the bin stays about 80. I set up my bins this way because I am not going to heat my entire studio apartment to 90 degrees lol. The initial set-up is a bit pricey, but it works and is cheaper than heating entire rooms.
  16. Very interesting paper, especially that it is from 1970 and so well documented! Definitely spurs the mind to wonder what other hybrids may be possible. Of course, only in a controlled environment and not circulated throughout the hobby.
  17. disregard...again I even switched sites from Flickr to Photobucket and it still is not working.
  18. Disregard
  19. Still cannot add photos. Please disregard the last couple posts. I am trying to figure out how to add pics. I already read the post on this forum about it, but that is not working.
  20. Apparently I cannot add any pics.
  21. Enclosure finished. Gromphadorhina portentosa colony has been in place for to weeks and all individuals are doing well.