nick barta

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About nick barta

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  1. Is Kyle still selling? His auto-response is from July....... Thanks, Nick
  2. This question is framed in giving the colony all the right parameters for reproduction. My vote would be Red Runners, which are yours? CHEERS! Nick
  3. In my cheapest gut load I use field-ripened alfalfa, non-medicated chicken feed, and oats. I grind the mixture into fine powder, and leave some in 1/8-inch chunks. It is $5 per pound, you can purchase it on my website, fullthrottlefeeders.com. I also have a $10 per pound and 2 gut loads at $15 per pound. The ingredients are listed on all 4 gut loads. CHEERS! Nick
  4. I sell a cleaner crew that does not have Dermestes in it. fullthrottlefeeders.com CHEERS! Nick
  5. Typically the length of days between feeding depends on how much perishable produce you use for hydration. Too much apples, oranges,leafy vegetables, squash, etc will attract fruit flies, gnats, mold, and smell. Since most keepers have higher temperatures in our containers, it can get ugly quickly if perishables are left more than 2-3 days. So I try to put enough perishables in the containers that they are eaten by the 3 day mark. Carrots seem to last twice that before needing removal. CHEERS! Nick
  6. I mix Dumor (non-medicated) Chick Starter, Scottish Oats, and Alfalfa powder as the main protein for my colonies. I do a partial grind on the chick starter so that nymphs can eat it, but the Scottish Oats and alfalfa powder are fine enough they need no grinding. With 1/3 of each, my protein average of the 3 is 18%. Typically the only part left in the colonies is the larger chunks of Dumor Chick Starter.
  7. Best thread I have ever read here! CHEERS! Nick
  8. Here is what I found works: Sterlite Gasket Seal boxes sold at Target will keep them in. Bark layered on the 3-inches of moist coco fiber, and apples to eat. To sort, never do it at night; they are active and uncontrollable. Have a tall sided empty plastic bin, place one of the bark pieces gently in the bin, pick out the green adults, then you can sieve the brown non-climbing nymphs. CHEERS! Nick
  9. Try the Sterlite Gasket Box sold @ Target, nothing gets out. CHEERS! Nick
  10. If you go to chameleon forums.com and look up my ad under the classifieds section-Feeders, "Gut loads and feeder supplies," you will see 2 Roach chows with the ingredients listed. The Wow Chow is made with 8 ingredients and is $10/pound. The Roach Bedding Chow is made with 3 ingredients and is $5/pound. CHEERS! Nick
  11. I would ship with a 72-hour heat pack. The temperatures at your end are not as crucial as the temperatures at the receiving end. I think most DOA's happen in the last day in the delivery van and of course, on your porch/mailbox. You can order 72-hour heat packs from Superior Shipping Supplies.com. Another trick to protect the ooths/insects is to put the activated heat pack in a paper bad folded tightly up and taped, or wrap it up in paper towels and tape it so it doesn't roll out. This will give you longer heat time. I tape it to the furthest place in the box from the insect, so to not overheat them. I always check the customers temperatures, and some shipments I now need to build 1/2" insulation in some orders. You can buy a 4' x 8' sheet at Lowes for about $8. CHEERS! Nick
  12. Hisserdude is allergic to Hissers...ironic, no? CHEERS! Nick
  13. Jesus, Look at my post under "Enclosures" the title is "My Favorite (and other feeders) Bin. It is 11th from the top. It will show you why vaseline is not necessary! CHEERS! Nick