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nick barta

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Everything posted by nick barta

  1. nick barta

    Beware of fake hisser ads on eBay!

    When you passed "GO" did you kill 5 pedestrians???
  2. nick barta

    New roach colonies wanted

    Go to my website, fullthrottlefeeders.com. You can order Orange Heads and Ivory Heads. CHEERS! Nick Barta
  3. Is Kyle still selling? His auto-response is from July....... Thanks, Nick
  4. This question is framed in giving the colony all the right parameters for reproduction. My vote would be Red Runners, which are yours? CHEERS! Nick
  5. nick barta

    Good plant based diet?

    In my cheapest gut load I use field-ripened alfalfa, non-medicated chicken feed, and oats. I grind the mixture into fine powder, and leave some in 1/8-inch chunks. It is $5 per pound, you can purchase it on my website, fullthrottlefeeders.com. I also have a $10 per pound and 2 gut loads at $15 per pound. The ingredients are listed on all 4 gut loads. CHEERS! Nick
  6. nick barta

    Cleaner crew for dry substrate?

    I sell a cleaner crew that does not have Dermestes in it. fullthrottlefeeders.com CHEERS! Nick
  7. nick barta

    Feeding Frequency

    Typically the length of days between feeding depends on how much perishable produce you use for hydration. Too much apples, oranges,leafy vegetables, squash, etc will attract fruit flies, gnats, mold, and smell. Since most keepers have higher temperatures in our containers, it can get ugly quickly if perishables are left more than 2-3 days. So I try to put enough perishables in the containers that they are eaten by the 3 day mark. Carrots seem to last twice that before needing removal. CHEERS! Nick
  8. nick barta

    Chicken Feed..?

    I mix Dumor (non-medicated) Chick Starter, Scottish Oats, and Alfalfa powder as the main protein for my colonies. I do a partial grind on the chick starter so that nymphs can eat it, but the Scottish Oats and alfalfa powder are fine enough they need no grinding. With 1/3 of each, my protein average of the 3 is 18%. Typically the only part left in the colonies is the larger chunks of Dumor Chick Starter.
  9. After trying many types of plastic bins to house roach colonies, I have found the bin that is perfect for my 13 colonies. I thought it might be helpful to pass the information on, as well as a few pointers on customizing the lid for ventilation. As I began to acquire climbing and flying roaches, the need for a secure lid became apparent. No regular plastic box tops sealed to keep flying adults and climbing nymphs in the box…a real problem I needed to solve. Zip Lock makes clear plastic containers that have a sealing lid, with a foam gasket, so I bought some. The problem with the Zip Lock box is the top is not flat, so cutting a large ventilation hole in the top became too difficult. I found that the Sterilite Gasket Box containers with the same sealing style lid with a foam gasket, has a flat top, and they have 4 clips to secure the lid-no escapees, finally! Sterilite makes a 20-quart Gasket Box that I use for small colonies, and a 54- quart Gasket Box for my larger colonies. Sterilite also makes a larger Gasket Box with the sealing lid with the gasket, but it would not fit my rack system. Cutting the lid ventilation hole A razor knife is not a good choice; the plastic is tough and hard, too much pressure and the plastic cracks. The best cutting tool is the Roto Zip, using the cutting disc, not the toothed blade. Cut the hole to take up most of the lid; if you want to hold more humidity, just cover part of the screen with a towel. With too small a hole, you may get excessive moisture in the box, this will lead to problems in most roaches. How do I screen the ventilation hole? First I tried hot-gluing the fine screen on to a wood frame, and then hot-gluing the frame around the hole. Although it worked for a while, the flex of the lid as I took it off and on popped the glue loose. So I built a matching wood frame and placed it on the underside of the lid, and bolted the 2 pieces of wood together with 4 bolt-nut combinations. To eliminate the gnats and fruit flies access, I sandwiched a sheer piece of material above the screen; gnats and fruit flies were gone in 2 weeks, as they had no food source. If you are looking to contain your feeders, the Sterilite Gasket Box will do it! CHEERS! Nick Barta
  10. nick barta

    Red Runners Diet

    Best thread I have ever read here! CHEERS! Nick
  11. nick barta

    Enclosure for Panchola nivea

    Here is what I found works: Sterlite Gasket Seal boxes sold at Target will keep them in. Bark layered on the 3-inches of moist coco fiber, and apples to eat. To sort, never do it at night; they are active and uncontrollable. Have a tall sided empty plastic bin, place one of the bark pieces gently in the bin, pick out the green adults, then you can sieve the brown non-climbing nymphs. CHEERS! Nick
  12. nick barta

    Can these species be stopped by Vaseline?

    Try the Sterlite Gasket Box sold @ Target, nothing gets out. CHEERS! Nick
  13. nick barta

    Commercial Roach Chows

    If you go to chameleon forums.com and look up my ad under the classifieds section-Feeders, "Gut loads and feeder supplies," you will see 2 Roach chows with the ingredients listed. The Wow Chow is made with 8 ingredients and is $10/pound. The Roach Bedding Chow is made with 3 ingredients and is $5/pound. CHEERS! Nick
  14. nick barta

    Shipping Ootheca

    I would ship with a 72-hour heat pack. The temperatures at your end are not as crucial as the temperatures at the receiving end. I think most DOA's happen in the last day in the delivery van and of course, on your porch/mailbox. You can order 72-hour heat packs from Superior Shipping Supplies.com. Another trick to protect the ooths/insects is to put the activated heat pack in a paper bad folded tightly up and taped, or wrap it up in paper towels and tape it so it doesn't roll out. This will give you longer heat time. I tape it to the furthest place in the box from the insect, so to not overheat them. I always check the customers temperatures, and some shipments I now need to build 1/2" insulation in some orders. You can buy a 4' x 8' sheet at Lowes for about $8. CHEERS! Nick
  15. nick barta

    Roach Allergies

    Hisserdude is allergic to Hissers...ironic, no? CHEERS! Nick
  16. nick barta

    Should I get lobster?

    Jesus, Look at my post under "Enclosures" the title is "My Favorite (and other feeders) Bin. It is 11th from the top. It will show you why vaseline is not necessary! CHEERS! Nick
  17. nick barta

    Running out of space

    Go to Home Depot or Lowes, buy the 4-foot long plastic shelving that is 2-feet deep. You will get 2 bins per shelf. CHEERS! Nick Barta
  18. nick barta

    Mites-how to get rid of them

    Thanks! CHEERS! Nick
  19. On another forum a member asked me how to get rid of mites in his super worm container. Fortunately I have only run into mites one time, but would like to give him a solution. The one time I had them in one container, I threw out the colony and started over. Thanks, Nick
  20. I have 4 large colonies (2 G. portentosa and 2 E. posticus) that generate quite a bit of moisture. I had been replacing the egg flats every 2-3 weeks. I decided to try 2 different climb surfaces on the G. portentosa, and have been quite pleased with the outcomes on both. The first picture shows the all-bark climbing surface container. I have a huge supply of the bark, and harvesting is easier than the damp egg crates. The next two pictures are the other colony of G. portentosa with plastic egg flats as the climbing/resting surface. I was doubtful that the roaches would hang on the plastic, and expected to find them all around the bottom, but they are all over the plastic egg crates. When dirty, the plastic egg crates can be hosed/brushed off, or put in the dishwasher, and don’t have to be replaced. I like the natural bark as a surface for looks, but the container is HEAVY… The plastic is washable, and light, and is my favorite of the two. If you want to try some plastic egg flats, email me at nick@bllc.net, they are $1.50 each.
  21. nick barta

    Hisser tank smells like vinegar?

    My 2 large G. portentosa colonies are in 54-quart Sterlite Gasket Boxes with a full screen top, and they both began to smell like ammonia. There was enough moisture that it was condensing on the sides, and making the coco fiber wet on the bottom, along the sides. Upon a member's suggestion I switched from 4-5 orange slices every other day to apple slices, and for the last 5 weeks have no odor. My colonies of G. portentous are pushing 1,000 each, so the numbers would magnify the problem I suppose. My E. javanica colony is about 50 adults, and my first hatch of nymphs. I keep them in the same 54-quart size container, and never have had the ammonia smell. They don't require near as much fruit hydration, and I have never had moisture condensation on the sides of the container. My temperature at substrate level is 90 degrees on both species. Hope this helps. CHEERS! Nick
  22. nick barta

    What to use

    Depending on size, pinky mice, adult mice, pinky rats, adult rats, small children... CHEERS! Nick
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