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  1. 2 points
    Found this photo and I wanted to share. 😋
  2. 1 point
    Hi Does anyone know what enviroment they live in? In leafs or stones? Average temperature? Is there a winter season in their habitat? All I know is they are semiaquatic. But i have 8 adults and they don´t go to water. Maybe nymfs only? Please for any advice.
  3. 1 point
    Yeah those could make a good addition to the substrate, the leaves especially, the wood may not be too helpful unless it's been rotted a bit.
  4. 1 point
    Yeah this normally happens to sterilized media, give a few days to a week, it should disappear, especially if any springtails are already present in the enclosure.
  5. 1 point
    Pseudoglomeris magnifica (formerly Corydidarum) fit your criteria pretty well, as I don't think the males are especially flighty. They are diurnal, beautiful, relatively easy to care for, however they do require temps above 75F° to breed normally. The three Therea species also fit your needs pretty well, and are much more easily obtainable.
  6. 1 point
    Yeah but the problem lies with most roaches and isopods inhibiting similar niches, so one usually outcompetes the other, and USUALLY the species of isopods selected as cleaner crews have the advantage with a faster breeding speed... Also the whole cuttlefish bone thing is overrated, several old time hobbyists have consistently reared several isopod species for years without any calcium additives, with next to no cannibalism...
  7. 1 point
    Blaberus giganteus would fit your criteria (especially that last one). They do not fly upwards and cannot climb smooth surfaces. They do expel a musk, but it is usually only used when you mess with them.
  8. 1 point
    What isopod species did you use? The species can make a world of a difference. They also need cuttlefish bone to not start nibbling on the roaches, and Porcellio scaber should generally be avoided as a clean up crew for simply being too aggressive. Some species breed like mad and could stress roaches by their sheer numbers while others are slower breeders and more mellow, then there's substrate dwellers and species that live on top of the substrate, there's really a lot of different ones.
  9. 1 point
    I had Panchlora nivea for a while, and they are pretty as long as you can contain them. Hissers are not bad for invertebrates, particularly hisser nymphs, because invertebrates break the exoskeleton before digestion. Reptiles and amphibians usually swallow their prey and the exoskeleton remains largely intact. The bigger problem with using hissers as feeders is that they do not breed very fast, so eventually you can exhaust the colony. I have heard of some people using Simandoa conserfarium, and there are some colorful members in the same family as common pest roaches (ability to become a pest means fast breeding).
  10. 1 point
    Sounds familiar.... If I boil or otherwise sterilize wood, it tends to overgrow with fungi. Those range from green to very hairy. Bark can contain enough food to become overgrown with fungi. And there are always fungi and bacteria on *any* surface, but they keep each other in check. Once you boil the bark, the balance get's disturbed and one species can colonize the whole surface. At least that's how I see it. What to do? Clean it at 40-50 degree, so that not all microorganisms get killed, or what I often do: bury/cover the bark in/with balanced soil of compost so that it get's recolonized in a more balance way. I just take some substrate from a roach bin of bury it in there and wait for a week or so. Another option is to have it dry thoroughly before adding it to the enclosure. Without moisture, these fungi won't grow,
  11. 1 point
    I use coco coir, mixed with dead oak leaves for most of my roaches and a layer of leaves on top. I also add (depending on the species), pieces of bark (alder, birch etc.) to provide a hiding space. For the species that eat wood (e.g. Panestia), I use flake soil (fermented and composted oak wood chips and sawdust) and pieces of partially rotten wood (that has been laying in my garden for a few years). In case of climbing species (e.g. Thorax porcellana), I also add twigs and branches. Hornbeam leaves, or leaves from other trees that curl up when dried is very suitable if you have small species that like to hide (e.g. Perisphaerus pygmaeus). The downside of some substrates is that that are fungus gnat magnets, so I add soil from other enclosures in new ones, because that contains predatory mites that seem to control fungus gnat. Th roaches itself don't seem to be bother much by the little flies, but my wife does object having them around in large quantities in our house.
  12. 1 point
    I have A. tesselata, B. craniifer, and domino roaches (forgot their name) in coco fiber with leaf litter added on top and in. Seems fine so far. Most roaches aren't as substrate-reliant as things like millipedes can be. Same thing should work for most isopods, yes, though a bit of rotting wood is also good (but not required) to add for them.
  13. 1 point
    I normally do 2 parts of coco fiber, 2 parts of sphagnum moss, 1 part of coco husk chips, and 1/2 part of charcoal. Then I just add some decent amount of crushed leaves and mix it all up. So far I haven't had any problems with that. Edit: I honestly don't know if it really matters the amounts of each haha
  14. 1 point
    The substrate I use is coco fiber, sphagnum moss, coco husk chips, crushed dried leaves, and charcoal. Then a layer of leaf litter and bark/branches for hiding. I use the same substrate for all roaches and isopods. The only thing that changes is how dry/moist the substrate must stay depending on the specie
  15. 1 point
    Yeah most burrowers are unaffected by tropical pink springtails, it's the non-burrowers that can get stressed by the constant tactile contact. Smaller springtail species like the little silver ones are compatible with every roach species I know of.
  16. 1 point
    Yeah, those will climb around on branches and stuff should you provide them with some. Pseudoglomeris magnifica are very expensive right now, and I only know of one vendor in the US who sells them, (@Bmaines96), but they are absolutely beautiful! And there are a few other Gyna species in captivity but they are very finicky, as well as a few other Panchlora species.
  17. 1 point
    Springtails seem to be the best CUC for most roach species, however some of the larger varieties like the tropical pinks, (Sinella curviseta) have been known to stress out and overwhelm a lot of the more sensitive roach species.
  18. 1 point
    Gyna adults could be considered aboreal, as could Panchlora adults... Pseudoglomeris magnifica are rather easy to breed and aboreal, but very expensive and can be slow growing.
  19. 1 point
    Most people's cultures died out, the black germanica are actually pretty sensitive, definitely couldn't infest a normal human home and are very sensitive to lapses in care... I think @Bmaines96 either has a colony or will be getting a starter culture very soon, can't remember...
  20. 1 point
    I need to remember to get regular B. germanica, which is easy because they are a pest in my house. I would caution you on special breeds of pest species in your house because, unless you obtained them in-state, they are regulated by the USDA. It could cause a problem if they escaped and proliferated.
  21. 1 point
    I'll be copy/pasting this to two other places, and will link them up here in case anyone wants to see any other suggestions I might get. https://www.dendroboard.com/forum/parts-construction/351136-considering-blaberus-giganteus-exhibit-need-background-advice.html#post3060760 http://arachnoboards.com/threads/cave-roach-enclosure-advice-needed-blaberus-giganteus.318477/ I have a 65 gallon aquarium standing empty except for a couple inches of water, and I think I want to make a giant cave roach habitat. But a really cool one- like the inside of a cave. I've been looking at pictures of their natural habitat, and they live in rainforest caves in Central America. I'm thinking of making a background that looks like fake rock, and providing light only from one smaller fixture, like the light is shining down through a hole in the ceiling. The substrate would be a nice, thick layer of coco fiber and hardwood leaves, and I'd put some wood in for them to chew on. My main concern is that the roaches will chew anything I use as a background. I don't want to use a cement background because it would be super heavy, and I don't want to work with clay, it's kind of a pain in large amounts. I'd thought about styrofoam with something over the top as sealant, but I'm worried the roaches would eat through the sealant and just start chewing. Who's kept these guys, and how do you keep them? Any sort of background?
  22. 1 point
    Hello! I want to show you some of my more uncommon [here in Europe] roach species. My foto size reduction is slightly better than in my last topic and I will further try to improve this. Melanozosteria nitida BRUNNER VON WATTENWYL 1865 (from Khai Sok in Thailand) Only under lights more redish than black, but look at the defensive secretion on their last abdominal segments. They are incredible fast runners. Thorax porcellana SAUSSURE 1862 (from India and Sri Lanka) Beautyful species from the Epilamprinae subfamily. Most fascinating are the baby cockroaches below their mothers wings for the first weeks. First rank breakout artists.
  23. 1 point
    Archimandrita sp. "Cerro Chucanti / Panama" Real giants with 8cm lenghts from head to wing ends, the female is nearly 5cm broad. Bigger than A.tesselata and looking a bit different. Adult female:
  24. 1 point
    Orange slices seem to be the generally accepted favorite food of many roach species, hissers one of them! They also seem to love turtle hatchling food (strangely specific) and will eat cracked bird seed.
  25. 1 point
    I'm curious if you were able to raise the specimen from the last pic to adult. I have a hunch that it's a nymph of Plectoptera poeyi but I'm not 100% sure about this.
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