Jump to content

Betta132

Members
  • Content count

    181
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Betta132 last won the day on May 19

Betta132 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

38 Excellent

About Betta132

  • Rank
    Subadult

Recent Profile Visitors

883 profile views
  1. Betta132

    Anisolampra panfilovi

    Weird that he wouldn't want to at least tell you how to keep them alive, if not give away the 'trade secret' of breeding them.
  2. And don't ever use P. ornatus! People feed them live (but crippled) roaches sometimes, they're extremely protein-hungry and would no doubt devour any roach that molted where they could reach. I'd be wary of using them as cleaners with reptiles, let alone things near their size. Armadillidium species should work out okay. They're a bit slower to breed, they don't have much interest in protein that can avoid them, and they don't tend to burrow. I have A. vulgare in with my domino roaches (accidental introduction), and that doesn't seem to cause any problems, though I do occasionally trap extras out. Since isopods can't climb, they're really easy to thin out. Just bury a deli cup up to its rim in the substrate, put food and a damp substance in the bottom, and cover it loosely with something like a magnolia leaf. Isopods go in after the food and can't climb back out. Then all you have to do is check if the cup contains anything you want to keep, remove anything you want to keep, and dump the rest into somewhere else.
  3. Betta132

    Help picking species to keep

    A. tesselata are big, easy to care for, and great for handling. I don't think they can fly, too heavy.
  4. Betta132

    Anisolampra panfilovi

    Never kept them, but they look really neat. Where did you get them?
  5. Betta132

    Which species?

    Oh, yes, Therea! The downside is they spend a lot of time underground as nymphs, and the adults are short-lived, but they're extremely easy to care for. Just give them a deep substrate with lots of hardwood leaves involved. You don't even really need to feed them until they hit adulthood, though the occasional veggie doesn't go amiss.
  6. Yeah, that sounds like pretty much ideal hisser care. Do they have plenty of space? Moisture? A couple degrees warmer wouldn't hurt.
  7. Betta132

    Tarantula molt as food?

    Sure! They'd eat their own molts, a tarantula molt shouldn't be any different. You may want to avoid the part with the irritating hairs, though. More for your own finger-safety in not getting those into your roach bin than for them.
  8. Betta132

    Rotting wood

    Whether or not rotting wood crumbles can vary a lot depending on how wet it is at the time. If you'd have a hard time picking up a log entirely made of the stuff, it's rotted enough. If it's not quite rotted far enough, that won't hurt anything. I don't think it's possible for wood to be too rotted unless it's turned into dirt. The really good rotted stuff is super soft, nice and spongy. I like how it feels. You can break it apart in your fingers, and generally should, to check for stowaways. Even if you're gonna boil it, it's good to try and shake out whatever live things you can before boiling it. Sometimes bumblebees nest in rotting wood, so you can find the grubs or pupae. Those in particular should be left alone- just put a whole little chunk with them in it back and let them keep doing their thing. You should also avoid termites, they'll eat the wood before your roaches do and might not be the best thing to bring into your house.
  9. Betta132

    Which species?

    I like A. tesselata and B. craniifer. Both are fairly roach-shaped, but neat. If you want something a little more unusual, maybe horseshoe crab roaches? Can't remember their name at the moment, but they look like trilobites. Heck- you could do horseshoe crabs and something else in the same enclosure. They mostly burrow, so they can be mixed with something that mostly climbs.
  10. If you can't keep springs alive, it's probably either too dry or too sterile for them, or both. Best to keep a master culture of them in ideal conditions (a container of charcoal with yeast sprinkled in and at least an inch of water) and sprinkle them into the enclosure until they establish. That way, if they die off, you have more.
  11. I can see the pic now. Those are springtails, I'd say. They're harmless. You want 'em around, they keep things clean.
  12. No, evidently I'd need to message you for permission. Do they look like tiny, pale spiders? If not, they're not grain mites. These are grain mites:
  13. Betta132

    Any advice?

    They aren't really social. If it's old, another would probably just annoy it. Don't use heat lamps for roaches, they dry the habitat out and are unnecessary. If temps are going below mid 70s frequently, it'd be more comfortable if you get it a heat mat. Heat mats should go on the side of the tank, only on decent sized tanks, so there's a warm and cool area. That sounds like a good diet. I'd add in some dried hardwood tree leaves, ones that have naturally fallen from the tree. Oak is good. Hissers aren't complicated, just keep doing that.
  14. Grain mites look like very tiny, pale spiders. You can get rid of them by keeping the enclosure drier, and by providing less to no grain-based food for them to feed on. They can annoy your roaches in large numbers, and are known to cause skin irritation sometimes in humans, but in small numbers are harmless.
  15. Betta132

    What do you use for substrate?

    I have A. tesselata, B. craniifer, and domino roaches (forgot their name) in coco fiber with leaf litter added on top and in. Seems fine so far. Most roaches aren't as substrate-reliant as things like millipedes can be. Same thing should work for most isopods, yes, though a bit of rotting wood is also good (but not required) to add for them.
×