Jump to content

Randomjoe

Members
  • Content Count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Randomjoe last won the day on October 9 2020

Randomjoe had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

37 Excellent

About Randomjoe

  • Rank
    Nymph

Recent Profile Visitors

1,028 profile views
  1. I use an oil filed electric space heater for the room roaches tarantulas and boas are in great $40 investment.
  2. what temps do you keep the room they're in? I keep my dubia dry and feed fresh fruit or veggies along with dry food twice a week. The room i keep them in has a space heater and never gets below 75f with highs of 80f in the winter and sometimes up to 85 in the summer. Also how big is your colony now? Maybe there just enough yet to notice the difference in colony expansion?
  3. If you decide tp go with Blaberus as feeders you might want to look at B. atropos mine breed fairly quick. I've also read that B fusca are the fastest breeding of the Blaberus.
  4. Nice to see there doing good for you.
  5. Good luck. Looking forward to updates.
  6. I should have mentioned earlier if you go with Blaberus you might want to go with fusca, atropus, or discoidalis. These should breed fairly fast. As far as population control you can cull or try to sell Blaberus, Eublaberus, and dubia and the lateralis you can pull and freeze the oothecas or cull them.
  7. dubia, Blaberus, and Eublaberus areeasy to care for. dubia are the easiest to get and breed best at higher temps (best between 80f - 90f). If your keeping them between 70f - 80f Blaberus and Eublaberus will breed faster. All 3 start at about the same size when born but Blaberus and Eublaberus will get larger. biggest problem imo of all of these is there quick to burrow and dubia will play dead. Living in Michigan you might look into lateralis they also can't climb smooth plastic or glass, and don't burrow. lateralis are fast breeding at temps between 70f - 80f and all stages from hatching to a
  8. 1. I don't know if it's true or not but I've heard the green layer under the skin of the potato is toxic. 2. I doubt you would have any problems but you might want a container full pf damp eco earth or sphagnum for them to lay oothecas on and for hydration. 3. I can't really answer this I keep mine on eco earth that i keep damp on 1 end. 4. You can leave them in the colony if there is enough moisture. If there's not enough moisture they'll be eaten so then you'll have to move them. 5. just keep an eye on them eventually you may need to split your colony or cull some if it
  9. I mist the leaves and bark once or twice a week, and pour a little in one corner at the same time.
  10. if you shop at sams club or a similar store you could buy the bulk pretzels or animal crackers those containers are 2 or 3 gallons. Clear with screw on lids for under $5 and could make a nice enclosure.
  11. you could always cut a piece of plexi glass to fit as a lid for your aquarium and add vents to it.
  12. I have Parcoblatta divisa and i keep then in a sterolite gasket bin with eco earth substrate, a piece of cork bark, and lots of dead maple and pecan leaves. I would think this would work for your 2 P. americana also. Besides the leaves i occasionally put a small piece of carrot or orange in there for them to eat.
  13. The only Parcoblatta I'm currently keeping is P. divisa and they only seemed flighty as the first ones matured. After i started seeing them mate they seemed to calm down and since only the adults climb I usually don't even worry about it. P. divisa hasn't breed fast enough for me to make them a feeder yet but I just started the colony last fall. Personally i use dubia for my larger T's and crickets for my few small or less active T's and occasionally hissers for my GBB's. Hopefully someone else can comment on breeding speed on other Parcoblatta. I suggested P. fulvescens only because I've read
×
×
  • Create New...