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BlattaAnglicana last won the day on April 20 2019

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About BlattaAnglicana

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  1. I don't think there's anything at all wrong in getting emotionally attached to your pets - although I now have so many inverts (stick insects mostly but also 3 roach colonies of at least 50 individuals each) I simply don't have time to get attached to them individually, when I first had roaches (three and then five individuals) I really did "bond" with them and gave them names, so when they died I was quite upset and gave them a little "burial ceremony" too. I think if you have any interest in and empathy for living creatures in general then in my opinion you're bound to get attached to them,
  2. The only thing I can think of if there's no obvious physical cause of death is that there might have been residual pesticides on the food. Do you use organic fruit and veg to feed them? And if not do you wash and preferably peel the fruit and veg? I would certainly give that a try (I also peel and wash organic food as well just to be double sure!) if you aren't already doing so. If you are already feeding them organic food the only other possibility is perhaps the heat lamp is too close and hot for them? I use a heat mat (with a thermostat to control temperature) on my roach enclosures ra
  3. I've seen a few with one or two of their body plates turned up like that after a moult (usually to adulthood thought), but not all of them! For what it's worth the ones I've seen with one or two plates turned up seemed to have no issues with the deformation, were healthy and lived normal lives, but what I don't know is what causes it and whether this one will be any different because all its body plates seem to be turned up. I guess if it seems OK and is eating etc. the best thing to do would be to keep an eye on it and see what happens at its next moult?
  4. OK that just looks like she has died and been partially eaten, it’s not a prolapse. She might have been the one who gave birth but I wouldn’t say the two events were necessarily connected - it’s just as likely that another female gave birth to the nymphs and this one happened to have died on the same night. in my experience E. javanica live about two years, they don’t seem to live as long as the other hisser species, although to be fair my javanica colony is more crowded than my other hisser colonies so that may also be a factor.
  5. RE the female with the "hole" in the abdomen - without a photo it's hard to diagnose but on occasions I have seen female hissers give birth and then prolapse their insides really badly and die off quite quickly after. Admittedly I've never seen it in E. javanica but I have seen it in G. oblongonota quite a bit and once in G. portentosa. Whilst this never looks like a "hole" to me (more like white stuff protruding from the abdomen) it's possible she gave birth, prolapsed and died a few days ago and (sorry if this is a bit gruesome) the others might then have basically eaten her - to them
  6. Do you have a photo? I have seen live (and very healthy) hisser nymphs with the colouration you describe, which was because they were very close to moulting and had stretched their old skin as far as it would go and the white parts between the body plates were showing, so it would really take a photo to show whether yours had any more untoward symptoms.
  7. I've kept phasmids (Neohirasea maerens) in a bioactive setup with isopods (just a common woodlouse species I picked up from the local woods, I am not sure of species) and they were fine, as far as I'm aware the isopods didn't eat the phasmid eggs and the substrate was certainly kept cleaner. However I went back to using kitchen roll in the end for the simple reason that having a bioactive substrate makes it difficult to collect the eggs. I just left them where they were, in the end way too many of the eggs hatched and I ended up with far too many sticks (over 450!). I think some who use b
  8. I do sometimes find hissers hiss at the sound of a hand mister, I may be wrong but my theory is that it can sound to them like another hisser hissing nearby and maybe they take it as some kind of alarm which stimulates them to hiss themselves? Young nymphs can't hiss anyway (I think that ability comes at around 4th instar or so) so I wouldn't expect them to hiss at it. Some of my tiny nymphs do run away but I've always put that down to an aversion to getting wet rather than fear of the mister. Again a very unscientific observation rather than any sort of definitive answer though! Mind you
  9. After a moult they will quite often sit very still for a while whilst they harden from pure white to their regular colour. However it's possible that part of the feet got stuck in the old skin which means the nymph might either have lost some tarsi as it pulled its feet out or it might have some old skin still stuck on its feet - I've seen both of those happen and they can often survive this, and if they do usually the nymph is OK the next moult (less likely if the skin is stuck on its feet, but if they lose parts of their legs as nymphs they can regenerate them as they moult). However if
  10. Sometimes I've found insects in general (not just roaches) can have bad moults when they haven't got enough humidity so I'm wondering what level of humidity you are keeping them at? You say "high" but do you have a humidity meter in the cage and if so what is the level? Also what substrate and temperature? It seems odd to me that the older nymphs did not mature in over six months, I tend to find hissers of various species mature more quickly than that in general - I keep them around 22-25 Celsius (sorry not sure what that is in Fahrenheit) and they usually take 3-4 months to mature. How m
  11. Funny you should say that, it's exactly the word I use to describe teneral roaches too!
  12. I know exactly how you feel! Having started with just three individual hissers two years ago I now have 11 stick insect species, 3 large colonies of three different hisser species, 8 millipedes (all the same species) and some blue death-feigning beetles, and their maintenance is getting pretty time consuming alongside a full time job ?, so I'd be interested in everyone's tips too.
  13. Test Account - I'm a bit confused, you seem to have said they like humidity in your first post but 50% is too much in the second??? For what it's worth I looked up the climate in the Sonoran desert (where I believe these come from in the wild) and humidity there seems to vary from about 15-20% in summer to about 45-50% in winter, and as they are at around 40% humidity most of the time in their enclosure now I am hoping this will be low enough for them to tolerate long term. Temps in the Sonoran desert seem to vary from about 4 Celsius min (very cold!) to 40+ Celsius max so I guess they ar
  14. OK - quick update, with a small heat pad on the bottom of part of the enclosure and a small PC fan to circulate air the humidity seems to be coming down to a steady 40-50%, so I hope this will be low enough for them. I've read they don't need misting and they are getting "wet" food (banana, carrot, apple etc.) but that dries out really quickly - within a day - in this sort of dry atmosphere, so should I be giving them water crystals or a small water dish as well in case they need to drink?
  15. HI all, I just bought 4 blue death-feigning beetles (very rare to buy in the UK!) at an insect show last weekend, and was wondering what the maximum humidity is that these can tolerate. The UK is quite a damp country ? and my home is also quite humid in general (I have to run a dehumidifier to get it to "normal" values and even that can struggle to get the humidity below 60%) and I am a bit concerned that this might be too high for the beetles, seeing as they are desert creatures. Does anyone have any experience of these, and if that sort of humidity is too high do you have any tips on g
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