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mehraban

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mehraban last won the day on June 17 2018

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  1. What do you mean by "frequent care"? I do not like to disturb animals unnecessarily... And, IMO, it's not my situation, anyway... Fresh wood, leaf mulch etc. - and never let them to be dry, though always try to keep some difference in humidity btw two sides of an enclosure. For how long? In years? They're pretty slow to grow and breed, so, IMO, 2 - 3 years is only enough for one full cycle, and period, which seems to be long in years, appears to be not so long in generations. When they appeared in the hobby? In mid nineties, or earlier? Are there colonies, still t
  2. Hi All! Last week decided to clean and replace my colony of P.angustipennis cognata - and found that there was no more colony. One young-looking male, pretty sad, one definitely old female, plus several nymphs of different stages. And that's all. Communicated with roach-comrades, heard just the same: colonies declined. Panestias, Salganeas, some other species. I even discovered that mine appeared to be one of the most long-thriving, usually they declined after 3 - 5 years, one full generation. Mine thrived successfully since, AFAIR, 2011 or 2012, when I found t
  3. Never have seen tomentosa being an issue for roaches, even for newborn and molting. Isopods readily consume dead bodies, aborted eggsacks, food particles etc, but not living animals. Cubaris murina in my enclosures can sometimes be too numerous and active, probably pushing some weaker roaches off from the food, but not trichorhinas.
  4. It seems surprisingly rare though, taking into account usually inbred population type. Many keepers start their colonies from just several roaches, or even a single pair... And these colonies successfully thrive and grow for years, with very few aberrants.
  5. Usually they do use bark, egg packs etc as above-the-ground shelters. If there're no such things in your enslosure, they try to use walls.
  6. I usually cool'em down a little - e.g., having usually +26...+28C, I bring the box to +18...+20 for a night or so, after it they're less active and do not even try to fly. It's also the way of, e.g., changing substrate or taking a group.
  7. The 2nd pic looks as if it's too damp in your setup - isn't it? Centurions are by far not the driest roaches to keep, but neither they prefer to live in a swamp... They're not especially choosy. Mine are prospering in a 10l plastic box, almost all the time being hidden in substrate, eating voraciously everything edible. Only males sometimes are active above, fighting and even try flying. If you want to make things better, just try to keep'em in long (not large, but long) container, making one side moist and another - dry, and
  8. The easiest way to get rid of these mites is to use predatory mites, usually it is Hypoaspis miles (now it's Stratiolaelaps scimitus, but the previous name is in use also). It's widely accessible as one of the "tools" for biological pest-control. It successfully eliminates all such creatures, and to some extent can even control larger pests, such as phorids (AFAIU, by eating their eggs and newborn larvae). Alas, in small setups it also destroys soil in-fauna, such as springtails etc., but does no harm to roaches, even with small and tender hatchlings.
  9. Yea, good problem. Phorids are disgusting, for me the one and the only way of eliminating them appeared to keep all the colonies in tightly closed boxes, with ventilation windows covered with steel mesh... In open setups they appeared anyway, with or without cleaning. But for removing excess dead protein "cleaners" are really useful... In less dry conditions woodlice work well, sometimes extremely well, especially Trichorhina with Cubaris murina. They eat dead roaches, roach food, prevent mold and somehow clean the substrate from mold etc. In dry enclosures I have several
  10. Flowers are very good as food for most roaches! Dandelions, roses, clovers, lilac... Acorns; pumpkin, squash, watermelon, melon seeds; soft ash and maple seeds... Some (protein-loving) roaches readily take unfrozen fruit-flies, mealworms, dead inverts like theraphosid males...
  11. Yes, sometimes they're quite noticeable. My byrsotria definitely prefer protein-rich food, schultesia take only plant-derivatives, etc.. I don't use cat/dog food, but give fish flakes with algae, at least cleaners consume them readily.
  12. I think they're, in general, inavoidable... Not clouds, but 1 - 2 - 3 I see almost always in my enclosures, though cleaners like isopods, springtails and sometimes even snails seem to utilize every noticeable uneaten food. To diminish their activity substrate must be drier, without any remnants of edible organics. Either in roacheries or in arachnariums it's barely achieveable...
  13. AFAIU, no; black from above and dull-orange below, with brown eyes. But I've already 2 males with such a blotch, separated them with one black female, mb, they'll produce smth interesting :) In fact, took them in november, 2017, in southern Lao. Dry sandy riverbed, moist but already without water, and nymphs were quite abundant but very local, found'em on only one patch, mb 2 - 3m in diameter, anywhere else around, in absolutely identic places, found nothing. From february to march successfully molted into imago (only 1 or 2 died for uncertain reasons), and now there is a crowd
  14. Two males (female looks just like male, but is noticeably larger and somehow bulkier). Surprizingly, one with orange blotch is by far not freshly molted.
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