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Blatta

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Posts posted by Blatta

  1. There's a thread on this site that supposedly contains information from a biochemist studying Blatella germanica and Periplaneta americana. That's probably the most accessible "research-quality" information we can get without diving into academic journals or databases that require authorized logins or paywalls. Basically, just feed your roaches what they will eat lol. You mentioned wanting to do an "all dry" diet but I think that would not necessarily help with fungus gnats. Try increasing ventilation in your cage or drastically decreasing the amount of food you feed at any given time for a few weeks. The gnats are never completely removable, if you have roaches  you're pretty much always gonna have a few around. The gnats are there for an ecological reason, so you can do some tweaking in the amount of organic matter you add to the environment. Springtails can also help fill this niche before the gnat larvae can.

    But anyway one of the things that the thread I was referring to said was that feeding vegetables and fruits helps to "restrict" the amount of protein the roaches get in their diet, supposedly too much protein is bad for them. So if you want to go for a "laboratory" type of diet, this might work: try rotating between fish flakes/pellets, dog food, and some type of oat/wheat bran. For a water and vitamin source use carrots and apples. Make sure that the roaches finish eating them in less than 24 hours. Also leaf litter can provide a backup source of food and shelter.

    But don't obsess over protein content or specific nutrients or anything. As long as you provide at least a somewhat varied diet, and your roaches are breeding and growing, you don't have to worry about their diet.

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  2. A few things. I'm not too sure about putting the lamp directly inside of the cage, along with the side-tank heater. This could make the enclosure too hot and dry, although from the picture they don't seem to be seeking out cool or moist places. Also, I'm sure other people would probably tell you not to use the rock water dish combo. It might be better to mist or pour water in one corner of the cage, creating a small moisture gradient/humid microclimate in the substrate for them to move into if they are too hot or dry. They are adults, and from my experience, adult roaches of most species usually eat far less than nymphs do, except for gravid females. I suggest just letting them do their thing for a while. If you take apart and redo their enclosure often, I think it's likely to just disturb them. I also don't think you need to bleach or clean anything with dish soap, it might be more likely to harm them with residual chemicals. 

    Also, make sure their cage is escape proof. I can't see the lid in the picture but babies could be escaping through the lid. Vaseline along the top inch inside of the walls helps. 👍

  3. They can climb smooth surfaces, so you'll want a tight fitting lid (with really small ventilation holes--or none at all) and you'll also probably want to smear some petroleum jelly or other barrier across the top inch or two of the walls. A lot of people do use plastic containers, especially sterilite containers with a foam gasket in the lid. Modified food storage containers, like the big cylindrical ones with screw top lids that pretzels come in, also work. Just rinse them out first. 

  4. I don't have much experience using plants in roach enclosures, but something along the lines of Sansevieria (Dracaena), Tillandsia, or Aloe species might do well, depending on how much light they get. Pothos might work as well. These aren't necessarily native to the same areas as domino roaches though. You might have more options if you keep the plants in plastic pots in the substrate. I would definitely be curious to see how it turns out if you try it. 

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