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RenOfTheRoaches

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Everything posted by RenOfTheRoaches

  1. It may seem odd but a lot of times I provide lots of hides and cork bark to discourage climbing out by the small nymphs. Usually if they feel comfortable, they won't have a need to get out of there but it's not fullproof. I use gaskets but what I do is cut ventilation, hot glue screening (Usually small insect screen), and then tape a layer of paper towel over that. That keeps things pretty secure. I know you wanted non gasket options but they're the best. Now if you wanna know where to get them on the cheap. got to Walmart. For whatever reason, they're the only place I know that sells those sterilite gasket bins at normal prices. Must be an exclusivity deal which might explain why they're expensive elsewhere. I go to my local Walmart early in the morning and the place is loaded with them. Might be able to get some off of wayfair which is what I've also tried. Hope this helps a bit!
  2. That's a great idea and the best way to feed them! Roaches really love variety and if you feed them multiple things a feeding (A protein, a veggie, a fruit, maybe one or two treat items) they'll really enjoy it! Speaking from personal experience! It's also healthier than any single food diet.
  3. Hey! I would assume it's fine as honestly, most leafy greens are pretty safe for roaches. I would be careful with things like spinach (And occasionally watercress) as I've been told they can bind calcium in large amounts but not sure if this is true for roaches. I do think they'd much prefer a piece of fruit (they love bananas in my experience) or another healthy veggie like carrots. But I never tried putting an edible plant in there so they might really like the natural foraging. I've personally never fed watercress but my roaches like other greens (collards, dandelion, etc.) though many roaches don't care for them vs a fruit or pet food option such as fish or dog food. If you want a good consistent food, Tetra Pond Sticks work well or the Tetramin fish flakes. Both seem to really make my large hisser colonies happy. I keep both of these species and mine eat loads of both. I supplement a few times every week or two with carrot, banana, or another fruit or veggie. Carrots are the real mvp as they're healthy and are extremely mold resistant. I'm happy you got hissers though! I keep many species but hissers are still among my faves. They have alot of personality and are great for beginners! I also find most roaches love those little beetle jelly cups but I'd just use them as occasional treats. Same for a bit of honey. In all honesty, I feed large amounts of them with the pond sticks or flakes as a staple with fruits or veggies once or twice a week. Just be sure to mist on the dry food days. I only need to feed mine like 2-3 times a week as a good feeding lasts them a day or two and helps to keep them from leaving food around for pest attraction. Hissers actually have low appetites for their size so don't be alarmed if you don't see them swarm every food option. I find they aren't too food motivated across the board (Unlike Eublaberus serranus who devour anything I put in there lol). But if you have breeding pairs you'll have a high chance of nymphs as hissers tend to be easy breeders so you'll have lots of hungry babies in a few months! I would just increase food relative to colony size. In all honesty I have LOTS of hissers of both types (G. portentosa and E. javanica) if you want some. I'd happily send them for free if you take on the shipping. My Common Hissers are not pure strain though (Unless your source mentioned they were, yours most likely aren't either as pure common hissers are really rare). If you wanted links to the fish food I was talking about I'm happy to find it online and PM you. All the big pet stores have it. Hope that helps! I find with most roach species including hissers, variety is KING. So if you give them variation in their diet to keep them from getting tired of things they do better (They do actually get sick of the same food and thrive on variety!). Roaches kind of eat cafeteria style (As Orin McMonigle calls it) and they eat different things each feeding session to suit their daily needs. If you offer like 3 or 4 things a feeding session, you'll see them kinda pick and choose what they want. It's really cute! Hope all this helps!!!
  4. Also you can utilize those sticky gnat traps that go into flower pots. If you have them bad in your plants those work wonders but I wouldn't put them into an enclosure as your actual animals might get stuck lol.
  5. Both springtails and isopods can help get rid of them. I've heard that springtails will actually eat fungus gnat eggs but I can't say for sure. What I do know is that springtails in large numbers will out compete the gnat larvae by eating most of the food supply from them (mold, rotting organic matter, etc). I had a big gnat problem and once I added my springtails, they drove them out real quick. I just used normal temperate springtails. Isopods will do the same but to a lesser extent and take longer to breed but a combo works great. I used temperate springtails and powder orange isopods. Dwarf white isopods might work better as I hear they directly eat mold. Many times just drying out an enclosure helps as the gnats need moisture (and fungus) to breed. Believe it or not, the gnats are harmless and actually in a way are kinda beneficial as they are usually there because there is moist fungus somewhere. I personally just don't like flies everywhere so I employ springtails and isopods to do their job for them. But if you really don't care, the fungus gnats won't harm your animals. They can destroy plants in large numbers as they can harm the roots if left uncontrolled in an enclosed space. If you want a 100% natural ecosystem, you can leave the gnats but I really don't like the buzzing adult flies so I choose to get rid of them but all in all they're virtually just an annoyance not a threat. I had bad problems with them in my roach enclosures until I used springtails consistently. Hope this helps!
  6. OMG THEY FINALLY DID IT! I'm glad they FINALLY sent them! I do keep this species and they are pretty prolific once they get going. Mine destroyed a whole carrot on a week when I was on vacation. The adults can climb but aren't exceptionally high strung in my experience. These guys in my opinion tend to be pretty chill as far as Gyna species go. They're not big eaters until you get lots of them and they are pretty ok with most veggies, fruit and protein options. I honestly have no issues from them so if you keep them about normal roach humidity they should be fine. Give them a nice loose substrate though as all stages LOVE burrowing. I have mine on a bioactive kind of thing with coco fiber and cypress mulch I think though it's been a while since I set them up. Hope that helps and feel free to PM me for any further questions. I personally love G. centurio and they're not too hard to raise in my opinion.
  7. Sorry they didn't work out for you. Hmm interesting as mine don't fly much at all. Captive populations usually don't fly as often as their wild counterparts. Maybe try providing some more hiding surfaces to discourage them from fleeing the container. Do you know if your culture was wild collected or was wild collected in recent generations? Maybe that's why they're a bit froggy. They are able to climb and fly at all ages so I would really recommend gasket bins for these guys. Otherwise, they'll get into other enclosures. Not a big deal if you keep different species as they can't breed with them, but if you plan on keeping any other Periplaneta genus you would want to keep the species separate to avoid cross breeding. I find lightweight species like this just waltz over climb stopping greases and such. Another substitute is to get a plastic bucket ( Like the blue ones Lowes sells) for Like 3 or 5 bucks with a lid and put them in there after using a knife to cut ventilation holes. That's a cheap alternative to gasket bins as those are really only available at Walmart I find and people scalp the crud outta them online. The lids on those buckets are air tight and you can put screen over the cut holes. I'd also tape paper towel over it on the outside. It'll let oxygen in but keep in humidity and roaches. I have three variants and two of the three have done really well and I haven't had any get out so far. I swear by the gasket tubs for keeping in roaches but those buckets work too.
  8. I would agree with much of the care requirements stated here. Keep humidity in their enclosure and provide them with enough food and they'll be fine. I also agree that P. americana are notorious for nibbling on each other and ooths if they don't get enough food or water so be careful of that. Do you know if you're getting a color variant (White Eye, Black, or Venom)? I have found that while they're the same exact roaches, my different variants do behave differently (Slightly anyway). My White eyes were really aggressive with each other and the colony kind of failed despite food or water but the other two variants flourished. They could have come to me in poor health though. In any case, here's some tips on these guys that I've noticed from having them: 1. Plenty of hides keep them really happy. P. americana tends to be reclusive and they enjoy hiding. I also find this keeps them from trying to escape or fly off as they have plenty of space to run and hide away. 2. Keep humidity up but not sopping wet. 3. They're fast so be sure to be prepared for that. Seriously, I have maybe one or two other species that move faster but these guys are regular Sonics. It can be startling if you are used to hissers or dubia. 4. I really recommend gasket bins for keeping them. They are excellent climbers and the nymphs are small. I don't find climb barriers or vaseline work on most roaches. I've seen mine climb right over it like a weird flex lol. The gasket tubs keep humidity and roaches in as well as pests like phorid flies out. I recommend taking a rotary tool like a dremel, cutting a rectangle out of the lid, hot gluing small insect mesh on the underside, then taping paper towel over it on the top side. The paper towel keeps in those small nymphs that can get through the mesh (Only certain species can get past it). 5. They enjoy a bit more protein in their diet. I'd feed them a higher percentage or fish or dog food compared to other species. Hopefully some of this helps! These are just things that I've found out during my care of them.
  9. Haha same here! they have a lot of personality and you can get some really cool varieties. I haven't had much trouble with mine.
  10. He most likely won't be able to reproduce anymore due to the physical disability. But he can still probably live a happy roach life! I'd just order a few more breeding pairs to make up for it (Specifically a lot more females). But due to the genitalia damage I don't think he'd be able to be an active breeder anymore. If you need extra dubia I'd be happy to just send you some lol. I have too many haha.
  11. I appreciate the advice as the adults and nymphs have grown well but aren't producing heavily. I'll switch to more humidity and see if that helps! I read your care guide and should def be able to switch them to that.
  12. I have the same issue occasionally with fungus gnats and phorrid flies. I recommend using sealed storage containers/gasket bins, cutting a rectangle or two off the top, then hot gluing small insect mesh over it. This still won't keep out gnats or phorrids completely, but that's why I also use masking tape to tape paper towel over the mesh. This allows for the roaches to breathe but keeps everything else out. It also keeps moisture in better than just mesh. I'd recommend taking the hissers out, trashing the substrate, and using a new batch of substrate, then tape paper towel over the vents. It's something I learned from Peter Clausen of Bugs in Cyberspace though he does it by putting paper town over the bin opening then simply closing the lid. He mentioned in a vid that the ventilation holes aren't always needed and enough air will still get in. I now put paper towels over all my bins as it keeps those pesky flies from trying to breed in there.
  13. Ah I see. I've never gotten a chance to buy any before so never knew they could be used as clean up crews.
  14. I'll try it out! I found mine take to leafy greens more than I thought; though it could just be they devour anything when there are enough dubia lol.
  15. Yeah though they make up for it by being the most expressive roaches I have. They have such unique personalities for each individual. Many smaller species kinda behave similarly. But my hissers all react differently to me.
  16. Most other species other than the ones I mentioned might be a pain to either keep or feed due to burrowing, climbing and slow reproduction.
  17. It might be hard to find a large species that doesn't climb or burrow. Most roaches can either fly, burrow, or climb/run fast. some like P. americana can do 2 of the 3 but don't really burrow. If you don't want climbing, I'd steer clear of any hissers, Periplaneta species, or many other common non burrowers. I'd suggest Turkestans (B or S lateralis) but they don't get large at all. I honestly recommend a Blaberus species or Eublaberus species. Good ones include B. craniifer and giganteus as well as E. posticus or E. sp Ivory. Honestly, orange heads might work best as they're one of the cheaper large feeders, breed fast, and don't climb or fly. But being ultra honest, I'd honestly either stick with dubia or orange heads if you don't want climbing. If you don't mind climbers, I'd recommend P. Americana or even potentially Paratemnopteryx colouniana (Though these guys are rather small). Hope that helps! Turkestans are like the only ones I find that can't fly (well anyway) burrow or climb. They're just kinda small for full size Ts. I might recommend superworms actually. My Pink Toe loves them and I can easily put them in her web or tong feed her. Though she doesn't burrow so I would steer clear of superworms for burrowing Ts. They could get lost in the substrate and will harm pets if left hungry.
  18. I love the zebra bois! One of my favorite species!
  19. Hey! Not sure how much you'd be wanting for them but I'm happy to pay shipping and take them in! I have several hisser cultures as pets and I'd love to give the nymphs a good home! Hissers usually aren't worth much money but once again, I'm happy to take them off your hands or at least pay for shipping so long as it isn't too expensive for the shipping.
  20. Hmm, maybe a neurological issue? Do you know where they come from? Or what he may be feeding?
  21. Haha I actually have two! One behavior witnessed two years ago and one witnessed today. 1. Dubia hunting live prey - One night in 2019 I put some mealworms into a set of about 20 mixed Dubia nymphs (Mostly large and medium sized nymphs). These nymphs had not encountered mealworms before. I noticed several hunting the mealworms and eating them live similar to behavior seen by orange head roaches. Really bizarre behavior as my Dubia colony never attack their tank mates like mealworms or dermestid beetles. Maybe because the nymphs didn't get enough protein? I was fresh as a roach hobbyist back then and didn't know what I do now. My roaches have balanced diets now but back then I probably didn't feed enough protein so they hunted foreign invertebrates to get it. They never turned to cannibalism thankfully. 2. Male Hisser Ramming Female - This was really odd. When I was feeding one of several hisser colonies I have I noticed a male charging and ramming multiple females like he would a rival male. This was odd as they NEVER from what I've seen charge females. All the males I've seen love their lady Hissers but this one wasn't having it. He rammed two that I saw and finally calmed down after several seconds. He then went to eat the fish pellets I gave them lol. Roaches are so interesting. So many intriguing behaviors!
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