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shealy

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Everything posted by shealy

  1. I think you are probably right about the non-refrigeration aspect. But what about a good chow mix formula?
  2. Hi all, I have read all I can about creating a great roach chow recipe. I have seen yeah and nay about dog and cat food. I have seen lots of livestock feed (poultry, fish, etc.). And even more exotic feeds such as ferret food. With these also comes different contents added like oats, bee pollen, spirulina, brewer's yeast, different cereals and other stuff too. I am raising four species of roach currently. Dubia, Discoids, Mad. Hissers and Halloween Hissers. I will be adding Turks soon. I have experimented with several types of recipes. Each one gets nibbled on but not devoured. Especially the Hissers--they seem to ignore the chows. Now, I also feed fruits and vegetables several times a week, but I am looking for a great staple that is highly desired. I have been using Purinas Game Fish pellets as my protein mixed along with Purina Layena Chicken feed too. I mix Honey Nut Cheerios and Oats along with that. The Mix is 2 cups fish food, 1 cup Chicken food, 2 cups cheerios (they take up alot of volume so 2 cups is not much) and a 1/2 cup of oats. I am open to just about anything, though, in terms of contents. I am just wanting a great chow that is highly desired by each of my species. In addition to the chow--has anyone every used water crystals to make a gel that is other than just plain water? I am thinking that I might try making gel from Orange Juice since oranges themselves are highly devoured by each of the species. Thoughts on the gel with orange juice would be greatly appreciated. Thoughts (or better yet, recipes with measurements) on the roach chow would be also greatly appreciated. Happy Roaching!
  3. So springtails are better than isopods? Do they also consume the dead and frass? Also, where could I obtain some? Thanks!
  4. Is there any other critters out there that can keep an enclosure clean? What I'm looking for is not just mold, but what about dead roaches, exoskeletons, and frass? Is there such a bug that can live harmoniously with roaches (not eat them) and clean up after them? I'd appreciate any help.
  5. I was also curious about this topic ever since I came across this article: http://www.store.repashy.com/can-feeder-insect-diets-contribute-to-gout-in-reptiles.html Does this article seem accurate or just a sales pitch?
  6. I have decided to heat the room where my roaches are being kept (vs. each individual container). I have some wall panels doing the job, but they seem to max out with the room being between 80-82 degrees F. Humiditiy is augmented by a humidifier which can get the room to as high as 70% but usually keeps it at about 60%. Dubia, Discoids and Turks are kept in the room. Is this temperature range and humidity range adequate for constant breeding and/or molting?
  7. Are these available to purchase in the U.S.?
  8. I was thinking once a week too, but when I asked this question on other forum sites, I was told not to do more than twice a month as that would disrupt breeding too much. Disrupting breeding? If once a week, I shake down the colony into separation tubs (taking about 10 minutes) would that seriously effect breeding? Is once a week okay or too much? Sorry for sounding like a broken record, but I would like to have others weigh in also. Either to confirm what I was orginally thinking (and roachboy's answer) or to dissuade that thought and offer a more conservative time table. Thanx roachboy for weighing in, though.
  9. With shipping in a box inside of a box idea, how do the roaches get air? I'm assuming a layer of packing tape is securing at least the outside box. Are ventilation holes punched into either or both boxes or does the cardboard "breathe"?
  10. The question of how often I should "harvest" the babies is still foggy to me. Once a week? Every two weeks? Less often?
  11. Are Gyna sp. available in the U.S.? They are an incredible looking roach.
  12. So taking the 7-1 ratio into account, my new breeder bin numbers would be 2 breeder bins each with 2100 females and 300 males. Then 2 smaller bins to "harvest" the babies into. Then two more bins to ugrade the larger nymphs into, and finally, 2 more larger bins to keep "extra" females and males that mature in separately. How does this sound?
  13. Thank you for your help. Are you just providing humidity with water crystals then?
  14. Would all 4 bins be breeder bins or would you have one breeder bin and 3 nymph bins? If it is the later, how do you decide what nymph goes where and for how long? Thanks for your advice.
  15. I am getting ready to take delivery of about 5000 Dubia roaches to start two breeding colonies. Once the nymphs hit adulthood and nature takes its course I will begin to thin out the ranks and keep a ratio of females to males in each tub. Is it better to go with a 3-1 or a 5-1 ratio? My tubs are large and should be able to comfortably hold several thousand. Another question, then, approximately how many nymphs should I expect to be produced from let's say 2000 females and 500 males each week? I know not every female is going to be kicking out young each week but I would expect to see new young weekly though. I would like to seperate the nymphs out of the breeding tub on a weekly basis so I can better track their age and growth through instars in smaller tubs. I always want to have easy access to whatever size I need. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  16. I believe I know the stuff you are talking about, and I agree, it is a great inexpensive alternative. I have since looked into an energy efficient radiant heat panel for rooms. I found one company that if I use two of their panels connected to my walls in the room and controlled by a central thermostat, then I will probably be able to have a heated roach room like what you are talking about. In your room that is heated, any problems with the roaches needing a "cool" area to go to? Also, do you provide extra humidity or doesn the internal tub humidity take care of itself with water crystals or some other setup?
  17. Thank you both for responding. How hot do these mats get? As I posted, I have an Ultratherm heat mat but it doesn't get as hot as I need it. From what I've read, Dubia's need it 85 to 90 degrees to get their development and reproduction rates at a good point. My room temp is a fairly constant 70 degrees. My heat pad and heat rope that I have tried are not raising the internal temp higher than about 74 degrees. The lid to the tub stays on but has three 4" screened holes in the top for ventilation. I have a thermostat so I'm not worried about the mat getting too hot for the tub but I do need it to get warm enought to penetrate the plastic on the bottom to make a noticeable difference. I live in Kansas, but these will be kept in my basement which stays fairly constant between 65 and 70 degrees all year long. I am considering going the space heater route as I will have multiple colonies eventually but I don't know how that will effect my electric bill. The room is approx. 15' x 12' in size.
  18. I am desperate at that moment as my roaches (Dubia) will be coming soon but I am still having problems getting my heat up to at least 85 degrees. I putting about 5000 nymphs into a Sterilite 45 gallon wheeled latch tote. I have tried an Ultratherm 11x17 heat pad and also some heat rope. I have the tote resting on a wire shelving unit. The Ultratherm was taped to the underside of the tub. When that didn't make a dent, I bought some heat rope and attached it to the wire shelving running a snake pattern underneath the tote. It barely brought the internal temp up. Both units were connected to a thermostat (just in case of overheating--lol--but I kept raising the thermostat's range all the way to 105 degrees and still no luck). Can anyone provide some other solutions? Pictures of your setup would be nice so I can visually see how you are heating your tubs. If you have a similar setup as to how I have mine described (i.e. wire shelving and a 45 gallon tote) then I would be most interested in how you are heating it. I feel I may have to go with an more expensive alterantive or a more uncomfortable alternative. The first being a nylon cover over my shelf unit and then a radiant heat panel (or two) to bring the "cabinet" air temp up to the desired range. The second would be have a space heater in my roach room (spare bedroom) to raise the air temp up. Both options are not as desirable as I don't want the massive expense or the uncomfortable temperature for me to endure during maintenance or whatever. I would appreciate someone's wisdom for my noobness. Thank you.
  19. I too am wanting to heat a 45 gallon Sterilite container. I bought an Ultratherm heat pad (11 x 17) and hooked it up to a thermostat (just in case). I have the thermostat at 97 degrees and the heat pad is taped to the underside of the container. I used the aluminum adhesive tape. I just go it today and have had it connected and running for about six hours. I read that the Ultratherms don't get much hotter than about 27 degrees above the room temperature. I am keeping this in my basement which has a room temperature of about 68-70 degrees and about 55% humidity. I just checked on the heat pad and it is warm but not hot and the little thermometer that is inside the tub is reading only about 72 degrees. Not much improvement. Does this pad need several more hours (or a day) to truly reach its high end or is this what I can expect from such a pad? Any information, suggestions or just plain know-how would be greatly appreciated.
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