Jump to content

Hisserdude

Forum Supporter
  • Content Count

    4,094
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    201

Everything posted by Hisserdude

  1. Hisserdude

    chat

    My plans for 2020, in the air... 😂
  2. Nice, glad they're doing well for you, good luck with those little cuties, seeing adults in person is such a cool experience! 😁
  3. This is true, but that's more so to keep them gestating their broods at a decent rate instead of only giving birth like every six months... Shouldn't affect the mortality rates of nymphs and females, I have heard of adult males dying prematurely due to a lack of ventilation though, (P.magnifica males should live at least 6 months on average). They may be slightly less active with less airflow too.
  4. Well I never updated y'all but that first pair never bred, adult Lucihormetica apparently don't handle shipping that well, none of the adult Lucihormetica I received ever bred for me, and several of my friends have had the same experience when receiving adults, (but have established colonies of those same species from nymphs they bought just fine). Anyways, here I am, starting with a group of small nymphs in 2020, hope I can rear them up and breed them successfully! 😁
  5. Just keep them in a container filled with a few inches of substrate, (coconut fiber works great), and keep it moist, either by pouring small amounts of water on the substrate or by misting it with a spray bottle. No water bowls are needed if the substrate is moist and they are fed fresh fruits or veggies every so often, and they may in fact drown in a water dish. Feed them every couple days to once a week, keep them warm, and that's it, they're one of the least demanding roaches to care for ever, take a while to get breeding, but once they do you won't be able to get them to stop... 😂
  6. Not many downsides to keeping them on a substrate other than it being harder to find small nymphs if you need them, other than that not much can go wrong, and they'd probably appreciate a substrate TBH. 😄
  7. Welcome back, hope to see you active in the hobby again soon!
  8. It depends on the species, but most should have at least a moderate amount of lid and cross ventilation, be it holes melted/poked into the plastic of their bins, or mesh ventilation holes. Some genera, especially those in the subfamily Perisphaerinae, need very high amounts of ventilation, both lid and cross ventilation, to gestate their broods in a timely manner... Whereas other species like Dorylaea orini, Anallacta methanoides, and Lanxoblatta rudis do best with low ventilation levels, with the first two liking near stagnant conditions.
  9. Thanks, they are quite stunning in person, the nymphs are reddish but not quite as red as my oversaturated pictures of them make them look. 😅 Well I just reobtained this species a couple months ago, my starter group of nymphs hasn't matured yet, (apparently they may be near maturity though, as @Cariblatta lutea's have started maturing, and he's who I got mine off of). They take forever to gestate their broods though, so it'll be a long time until I have any available.
  10. Roachcrossing's recommendation of "dry substrate, high air humidity" makes little sense and is why I lost my sp. "Jinka" culture... Just keep them with a horizontal humidity gradient, one half of the enclosure dry, the other half humid, that's what most people successful with Deropeltis seem to do. D.paulinoi seem to be more moisture loving than other Deropeltis species. They do appreciate good airflow, and Deropeltis do not burrow, so vertical bark slabs or eggflats work best for them.
  11. Any pictures of these hybrids?
  12. I just used a dollar store seive/sifter for mine, got it down to a fine enough level for the nymphs. Some people say it doesn't matter, but I suspect those people have a deep substrate in their enclosures, and while the top inch or so may be quite chunky, the bottom layers of substrate are always where the fine material settles down to, and where the small nymphs will stay. My problem was I used quite a chunky mix of not only coconut fiber, but also Zilla "Jungle Mix", and only gave them a couple inches of substrate, so there wasn't enough fine substrate for the smaller nymphs to burrow into.
  13. I'd think hybrid offspring between the two genera would look pretty weird and it'd be easy to tell if they did so... You're probably safe to keep them together TBH, but I personally wouldn't risk it.
  14. OK, that's good to know, I think nowadays in Europe some people must label the "Big" stock as just P.vanwaerbeki with no strain name at all, which probably accounts for Nicolas's experience with the lack of differences between them. Color wise, and considering the fact that this particular stock is very finicky compared to other hissers in terms of productivity and young nymph survival rates, what I have should be pure "Big" stock then, (though for some reason they've not been marketed as being from the "Big" strain). Your old "Big" stock was almost certainly pure too if they were finick
  15. Yeah, weird camera angle I guess, molted twice since then and is now (I think) a subadult. According to my lineage tracing, these are (supposedly) untainted descendants from DoubleD's Princisia, which were apparently NOT labeled as "Big" at the time, (he may or may not have been selling stock labeled "Big" at the same time, but these supposedly did not come from that culture). So I've just been calling them "Standard", though they're probably the same as what pure "Big" used to be, (and according to @Nicolas Rousseaux, the whole "Big" labeling was for marketing and to get more people to
  16. As a general rule of thumb, using the coloration of nymphs that are not yet subadults or larger is an inconsistent way of determining purity... I believe you mentioned something similar in your book "For the Love of Cockroaches", about telling younger Gromphadorhina oblongonata nymphs apart from other Gromphadorhina species, or telling if they're pure. They're still nymphs in that picture, that same solid black one (though it actually had small white spots on the thorax, hard to see with the flash), has now molted to the subadult stage:
  17. They're pretty much the same as Gromphadorhina in terms of husbandry TBH, not much different there. As for potential hybridizing, a year ago I'd have said it was impossible, but now that we know that Aeluropoda and Gromphadorhina can hybridize, all bets are off IMO... I'd recommend keeping breeding groups of ANY hisser species separate.
  18. Here on the forums, on facebook, heck I've even had luck using Craigslist. 😂
  19. Sell em in bulk for cheap as feeder use. That's what I do to cull overpopulated colonies.
  20. First off, unfortunately based on the size compared to the male, that individual looks like a nymph, and at the slow rate these things grow, might still be a few months until it matures, (at which point the male will be dead). Medium/large Arenivaga nymphs are fairly easy to sex from above, males develop larger, more curved thoracic segments than the females do, as they're going to have wings eventually: In some species this is more obvious than others, and it only works on medium to large nymphs, younger ones look much the same as each other. Alternatively you can sex them fro
  21. The blondes are a true breeding color morph of the normal duckies... I haven't heard of normal duckies popping up in blonde colonies, but I have seen lots of "half blonde" individuals show up in normal ducky colonies, which could probably be line bred into normal blondes.
×
×
  • Create New...