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izzy_here

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Everything posted by izzy_here

  1. Maybe I'm paranoid, I keep thinking my female's wings don't look right...dunno why I think that. They don't seem shriveled, shrunken, or damaged in any way...do they? Also, I've seen what I took to be newly "born" nymphs recently...I'm still not sure they were actually lurida nymphs, as there is a thriving population of various microfauna in this vivarium. Is it possible to safely add more G. lurida stock to this viv?
  2. Not sure I'd want them if they smell like poo
  3. Ellipsidion humerale & Methana marginalis are absolutely stunning. The name Methana scares me though...exactly why was that name given? Conjures up visions of a truly horrible defensive smell..
  4. I think more leaf cover would be of some benefit, it would provide even more surface area.
  5. I bought these guys from zephyr what seems like ages ago, the colony continues to bloom...despite a few setbacks due to underfeeding/watering. Whenever I mist or feed I see lot's of babies, and at least 2-4 adult females...the males don't seem to last long, but theres always a new one maturing. I expect to see a new one mature very soon. 12" X 12" X 18" exoterra. Partial list of substrate, cocofiber, oak chips, leaves, bark, longfibered sphagnum moss, sand...oh, and there is a thriving population of springtails. I've not had one issue with mold, it always smells like fresh clean forest loam. The light was for the purpose of these photographs only! The only light they NORMALLY recieve, is ambient light from the window. I use 2 small heat pads for reptiles, one on the bottom, one on the back, one is 6 watts, the other is 7 watts. Much of the vivarium is enclosed with an insulating foam pad used for ductwork. This is attached with aluminum tape, because the adhesive on the foam doesn't stick very well longterm. Temps vary, but are always in an acceptable range, mid 70's-low 90's depending on room temp. The hillside/hive was built with a very chunky mixture, with lots of loft. This provides tons of habitat for all ages. It's virtually a honeycomb, full of tunnels and hidey-holes. These are the best pic's I could get of an actual lurida, she was the only one that didn't hide right away. Any thoughts? Am I doin it right?
  6. I'd love to see 24 hours in the life of a wild Nivea colony, Gyna lurida would be interesting as well. I'd even settle for just a few moments of footage in an active time, as in the Domino vid I found. It's a shame...with all of the lovely new nature doc's/shows coming out these days, Planet Earth etc..you never see anything on roaches.
  7. I just purchased a diy flexwatt reptile heat pad on ebay, it was so cheap! Seriously worth your time to search flexwatt on ebay.
  8. I couldn't get a good pic without disturbing them again...but atm there is a small cube of melon in the bug jar..there are so many springtails on it it looks like a gum drop
  9. I thought it might be a nice setup for panchlora, they're said to sometimes inhabit low lying shrubbery etc. In many of the places they exist in the wild they are very likely seeking refuge in different types of spanish moss. I do have to watch it doesn't get too soggy, I've been known to drain it with airline tubing (with a plastic airstone on the end to prevent clogs) when it looks too soggy. Usually a good misting once or twice a week keeps the humidity where it should be. I also (quietly) remove the screen top and fan fresh air into the jar 2-3 times a day. I've been tossing around a few ideas for better ventilation...I may use a very small pc fan, this may be the easiest solution. The coffee cup in the pic is one of those ridiculously oversized ones that actually holds 2 regular cups. The viv next to it (housing my G. lurida and H. tenebricosa) is 12" X 12" X 18" the jar is 19" tall and approx 11" wide, it holds 3 imperial gallons, thats almost 3 & 3/4 US gallons. Substrate in both enclosures consist's of different layers/mixtures of (these are somewhat in order, mostly gravel in the bottom, mostly moss/leaves etc on top) heavy sand/light gravel, coco fiber, peat moss, crumbling pieces of oak, slightly less rotten oak, acorn shells, oak leaves crumbled and whole, long fibered sphagnum moss, all but the very bottom layer is quite fluffy & loose...there is also a rather large population of springtails & red/orange isopods. I've not seen one bit of mold in either enclosure pictured...despite the fact I place food directly on the substrate... All collected oak etc, was microwaved before use to kill any nasties. p.s. the light was only used for the purpose of photography, they normally only get indirect light from the window.
  10. My giant Panclhora enclosure...I know, I know, it's just a jar...a 3.6 gallon jar! The plant hanging from the corkscrew willow branch is one of the three forms of spanish moss I keep...they do not eat it...yet: \
  11. That is unfortunate about your portentosa, as for housing Panchlora and G. lurida together..I believe it will work, I only wished to have it verified by someone with more experience.
  12. Hello shipi, I will be getting both soon. I plan to keep the giant Panchlora in their own enclosure at first, so they can build up their number's. I am very excited to be getting Gyna lurida "yellow", I can't wait! I see you have G. portentosa "black", very nice! Ed
  13. Thoughts on enclosure size would also be much appreciated. For instance, if I used a 10-20gal for this setup and kept one end wetter than the other would this be a happy medium?
  14. Ok, I may have calmed down considerably since my initial discovery of all the awesome species available nowadays. After further research I think lurida's and giant panchloras might be good choices for me. I know panchlora want things fairly wet, and I've seen more than a few people say they keep their luridas fairly damp as well. Would it be possible to house both species in the same enclosure? Are they close enough in humidity requirements/tolerances for that to work? Also, would they bother each other? I don't want them all stressed and just tolerating such an existence, it'd be nice if they lived in peace & harmony. I've absolutely no problem housing them separately if they need to be, just thought it would make a neat display to have them housed together. Anyone have thought's or (hopefully) definitive answers? Ed
  15. If your going to ship them I'd reccomend purchasing some kordon breather bags on aquabid, esp if they're that delicate. At that point you'd pack them just as you might imagine..small styrofoam lined shipping box, possibly a heatpack if weather is frigid, etc.
  16. So fascinating...the vid the further stories of parental care...esp the last post. Interestng to hear the dynamics of such a small group in such a large enclosure.
  17. I'd love to know if Domino ooths respond well to focused culture...as in placing springtails or iso's in a deli cup and feeding them brewers yeast...as in removing the ooth's and possibly incubating them as you would phasmids. Everything I've read says leave them, so I'd be afraid to try....but that type of culture usually works so well with insects...I understand why you'd ask before you tried it though, I'd be very nervous messing with them.
  18. Hello all, My name is Ed, I've kept hissers and Giant African milli's in the past and have recently rediscovered my buggy passion. I've always loved animals and have kept many diff species, with a focus on those kept in aquaria/vivaria...I used to keep many types of fur and feather bearing (read dander bearing) pets as well, but my asthma will no longer allow that. I currently breed hybrid cichlids...basically a variation of flowerhorn. Alas now it seems I've lost my heart to Therea & Panchlora. I've yet to purchase any as I'd like to educate myself a bit more and have enclosures in place/up to temp before I do that. Show off pics unrelated to bugs. my diy overflow/sump soft coral system, now converted to a boggy stream paludarium. I actually need to update this pic...it doesn't look like quite this anymore. my (fertile) strain of hybrid short body green texas...in most strains of sb green texas males are not fertile... SB/GT male in full breeding dress. absolutely love this girl, even though I didn't spawn her...her father was a lovely Vieja synspila, the mother a king kong parrot fish. her mate, Paratheraps bifasciatus.. And last, but certainly not least, my most beloved pet of all. My boy Bailey...
  19. Hmm, thats tough. Can you get dry ice? If so you could try removing all the hissers you can find and placing them in temp quarter's. Then tape plastic (tightly) over the whole tank leaving one end open, place a dish of warm water in the tank, place a piece of dry ice in the dish. Seal tightly, leave it be for at least 10-20 mins. Repeat if you have more dry ice. The co2 produced from this should take care of anything left in the substrate. I have used this method with great success with collected leaves, bark, etc...even live moss. The only thing it wont kill are things like fungus, mold etc. I would post a link to a dartfrog forum thread...but I don't know if that's allowed here...that describes a similar infestation of milli's in a large planted viv, the sub in the authors viv was quite deep, the plantings very naturalized and mature...obviously not something you'd ever want to tear down...anyway the point being that the sub was very deep and it still worked, the author claimed total success in getting rid of all milli's.
  20. What an odd thing to say...silverfish, springtails and iso's don't have any benefit in a roach colony? Are you familiar with the "living vivarium" concept?
  21. Agreed. Although I do feel it's better to use them in conjunction with iso's or other cleanup crew.
  22. I'm only familiar with heat cables used for starting seedlings, which are placed in the sub, not under tank. Not sure how zoomeds product differs...even if the heat distribution was uneven..once the sub heats up wouldn't the warmth be pretty evenly distributed?
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