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Everything posted by lele

  1. Thanks, but this is not an eggcase. Been keeping roaches for a long time and have never seen anything like this! :-/ Sorry about the pics, let try this again...
  2. I have a Hisser who has some kind of protuberance coming from its rear end. Can you tell me what it might be and what I should do.She is able to move around and seems to go toward food. It was wet and cream colored. Now it is drying and more brownish.See photos attached. Thanks.
  3. I raise Indian sticks, Peruvian sticks and am a long time Saturniid moth breeder. The latter are NOT for feeders. I will first comment on those - as Peter said, they are a LOT of work and hardly worth the effort as feeders. If you want a caterpillar/moth go to mulberryfarms.com and order a hornworm pod and use those. easy, nutritious. Peruvian sticks are toxic and should not be given as feeders (mine are pets - and very cool and lovely ones I might add). Indians are extremely easy to raise and to keep a healthy colony going once you get one started. Blackberry and rose are not toxic and are perfectly safe to feed. I offer baby and juvi sticks to my little side-blotched lizard and sub-adults and adults to my chameleon and beardie. I have a rescued hatchling (6 months old) snapping turtle who interestingly spits out the stick insects! What you need to keep in mind re: toxins is the toxins ON the rose and blackberry and that you don't kill your newly acquired sticks!! DO NOT buy a pretty little rose at a nursery or supermarket and feed it to your sticks. They are loaded with pesticides and you will have dead sticks in a mater of hours. Collect your host plants from a pesticide free location and make sure you have enough winter food (if you live in a cold region) or a selection of houseplants for them to eat - again, pesticide free. They eat pothos, wandering jew, ivy (if you feed this or an excess of pothos it is not a good idea to feed them to your pets - research your plants toxicity). BTW, I DO NOT HAVE ANY STICK INSECTS (or eggs) FOR SALE or TRADE SO PLEASE DO NOT CONTACT ASKING ME. sorry Here is an excellent stick forum http://www.insectstore.com/phasmid/index.php
  4. Andreas, Here is a link to a guy who uses them in lab research in Germany and he may be able to help you out. They are frequently used in research because of their size and because they are so easy to rear in captivity on artificial chow as well as their host plant. I have a beardie and although he is a picky eater (UGH!) my chameleon loves hornworms. You do have to raise them on the chow as the build up of toxins from their host plants (family: Solanaceae) are harmful. If Jan's contact info is not up to date send me an email/PM and I will see if I have a more recent one for him, but try via his site first. good luck! lele http://www.jan-dolzer.de/
  5. LOL, sorry, can't help myself. So the long and short of it is that nothing is going to contain our little 6-spiny legged buggers. Zephyr, you know I mean this in a big sisterly way
  6. Glad you're going to move the caves into a bigger space. They will be much happier and I think you will enjoy them much more, too. You'll get to see them come out at night and their behaviors. Once you have more adults you'll probably end up with a Sentry standing guard, though it took my colony a long time to establish one. They like fresh orange, too
  7. IMO, you have these in WAY too small an enclosure, especially knowing what they came from Remember, they had several inches of substrate (the nymphs like to burrow) and the the egg crate "cups" are just too small to accommodate their large size. They had large pieces of cork bark where the late instar nymphs and adults like to hangout. I put an overturned quart berry container under the largest cork bark cave which works great for the nymphs due to the large, flat sides. The large nymphs would come outside and molt where they had plenty of room. Rule of thumb: at least 3x length of final size in order to molt. I would give them a minimum of a 10 gallon tank or buy a large Rubbermaid container and cut out a big area in top and use silicone or glue gun to attach screen (even though they don't climb, males get feisty when breeding time comes!) Granted, you don't have as many as I do/did (yet) so you don't need something quite as large B. giganteus but I'd give them more space then what you have. My temps and humidity were never a concern and they did just fine. I probably could have had higher breeding rate if I increased temps, but that's not what I was after. Still got plenty in the 2+ years I've had them! I never had a bad molt and I believe any deaths were simply age, never had any torn apart. I attribute my low incidence of fighting males to the large space they had. OK, I do tend to spoil my critters (and the caves get the royal treatment - lol!) but I'd give them an upgrade Btw, what are you giving them for water? I know you posted this a while ago and may have already made some changes but know you have your hands full, too lele
  8. Hey kid You can take a fresh cut stem, then cut it (stem) about 1/2" up the middle and put in about 1/2" of 50% water/50% vegetable glycerin mix(glycerin you can get from your pharmacist). Leave it in for a several days and you will see the leaf/leaves become dark and sort of shiny. This works best with broad, thick leaves like rhododendron and the like. don't use too much or keep in too long as it can get sticky. You can leave between paper towel for a couple days to absorb residual then place it in tank. have fun, lele
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