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nick barta

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Everything posted by nick barta

  1. I have 4 large colonies (2 G. portentosa and 2 E. posticus) that generate quite a bit of moisture. I had been replacing the egg flats every 2-3 weeks. I decided to try 2 different climb surfaces on the G. portentosa, and have been quite pleased with the outcomes on both. The first picture shows the all-bark climbing surface container. I have a huge supply of the bark, and harvesting is easier than the damp egg crates. The next two pictures are the other colony of G. portentosa with plastic egg flats as the climbing/resting surface. I was doubtful that the roaches would hang on the plastic, and expected to find them all around the bottom, but they are all over the plastic egg crates. When dirty, the plastic egg crates can be hosed/brushed off, or put in the dishwasher, and don’t have to be replaced. I like the natural bark as a surface for looks, but the container is HEAVY… The plastic is washable, and light, and is my favorite of the two. If you want to try some plastic egg flats, email me at nick@bllc.net, they are $1.50 each.
  2. I would say this is the best guess for any roaches dying due to orange rinds. I have fed orange slices for Hissers, Orange Heads , and Dubias with no ill effects. That being said, all produce purchased in the stores has the potential to have pesticide residue.CHEERS! Nick Barta
  3. Not sure, both my regular and giants eat apple slices, they devour them compared to oranges. CHEERS! Nick
  4. i have Little Kenyans, they tend to cling to the underside of bark, making easy harvesting, but they do burrow. If you are trying to match the size of a pin-head cricket, Rice Beetles, Bean Beetles, Buffalo Beetles, and Peanut beetles are all easy to culture and harvest. I can send you (and anyone else) care sheets on all 5, email me at nick@bllc.net. CHEERS! Nick
  5. After trying many types of plastic bins to house roach colonies, I have found the bin that is perfect for my 13 colonies. I thought it might be helpful to pass the information on, as well as a few pointers on customizing the lid for ventilation. As I began to acquire climbing and flying roaches, the need for a secure lid became apparent. No regular plastic box tops sealed to keep flying adults and climbing nymphs in the box…a real problem I needed to solve. Zip Lock makes clear plastic containers that have a sealing lid, with a foam gasket, so I bought some. The problem with the Zip Lock box is the top is not flat, so cutting a large ventilation hole in the top became too difficult. I found that the Sterilite Gasket Box containers with the same sealing style lid with a foam gasket, has a flat top, and they have 4 clips to secure the lid-no escapees, finally! Sterilite makes a 20-quart Gasket Box that I use for small colonies, and a 54- quart Gasket Box for my larger colonies. Sterilite also makes a larger Gasket Box with the sealing lid with the gasket, but it would not fit my rack system. Cutting the lid ventilation hole A razor knife is not a good choice; the plastic is tough and hard, too much pressure and the plastic cracks. The best cutting tool is the Roto Zip, using the cutting disc, not the toothed blade. Cut the hole to take up most of the lid; if you want to hold more humidity, just cover part of the screen with a towel. With too small a hole, you may get excessive moisture in the box, this will lead to problems in most roaches. How do I screen the ventilation hole? First I tried hot-gluing the fine screen on to a wood frame, and then hot-gluing the frame around the hole. Although it worked for a while, the flex of the lid as I took it off and on popped the glue loose. So I built a matching wood frame and placed it on the underside of the lid, and bolted the 2 pieces of wood together with 4 bolt-nut combinations. To eliminate the gnats and fruit flies access, I sandwiched a sheer piece of material above the screen; gnats and fruit flies were gone in 2 weeks, as they had no food source. If you are looking to contain your feeders, the Sterilite Gasket Box will do it! CHEERS! Nick Barta
  6. Shoot for 80 degrees, they hatch in about 2-3 weeks at 80.
  7. I would keep feeders available to the mantis, they grow extremely fast, you can also use rice flour beetles, bean beetles, and buffalo beetles. Mist lightly every few days, Make sure your wood decorations allow 2 times the length of the mantis for molting, if he molts onto the wood he can mis-molt. Mantis are like Australian Sticks; they have personality! CHEERS! Nick Barta
  8. It is fertilized ooth or you wouldn't get anything. Keep the temperature near 80 degrees, you may get more, but Chinese ooths tend to explode all at once. CHEERS! Nick
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